Saturday 23 December

Having toured Gran Canaria by car in 2016, we decided just to explore Las Palmas this time, using the hop-on, hop-off bus.  The city itself is pretty horrible: largely a grid pattern of narrow streets of mostly 20th century buildings of no architectural merit, though with the questionable charm of overhanging trees that threaten to lacerate your scalp as you drive past in the open top bus.  The bus stops at a grim shopping centre at the end of the Las Canteras beach, but that’s across the road from the new Alfredo Kraus auditorium.  Interesting building, though the architecture struck me as kind of incoherent.  The terrace of the auditorium offers fine views of the long, sweeping beach, where a lot of people were surfing.

From there we hopped back on, and rode through more modern suburbs, pausing to take in a view of the harbour.  More grisly streets later, we stopped for a walk round the Vegueta, which was altogether more ancient and interesting.  The cathedral is pretty hideous, though the interior is more impressive.  Mass was in progress, and as we left, the congregation, somewhat surreally, was singing some kind of dirge to the tune of The Sounds of Silence.  Outside there was a display of folk dance which we watched for a quarter of an hour.  

The bus ride back to the ship was partly along the waterfront, which was pleasant enough.  Just before we joined the coast road, we were passed by a pack of motorcyclists in Father Christmas suits, revving their engines like mad things at the traffic lights.  Hell’s Santa’s?

Back at the ship I did a spot of laundry, slotting in the afternoon quiz while one lot washed and another dried.  As for the quiz, we lost again.  But we also spent quite a while on the balcony, watching the traffic in the harbour.  It’s quite a treat to be able to sit out in shirtsleeves in late December.  We sailed at sunset for our next overnight island hop to Fuerteventura, a new destination for us both.

Christmas Eve

A healthy swell prevented us from mooring at the planned berth in Puerto del Rosario, so we’re berthed at the container quay, which is slightly more sheltered.   Even tied up, the ship is bouncing about a bit, so we may have some interesting days ahead.  

Fuerteventura was cloaked in a miasma of Sahara sand today, so we didn’t get the long views we might otherwise have done (and I had something akin to hay fever all the time we were out).  The landscape is pretty arid, and quite mountainous.  We took a tour to Ajuy and Betancuria, the first capital of the Canaries.  At Ajuy, the waves were crashing on to the black sand beach, and we were just about blown off our feet.  The cliffs are fascinating, showing the effects of wind and wave erosion.  Betancuria lies in a hollow, some distance inland, so I guess it must have been chosen as capital for its relative shelter from the wind, and perhaps for oasis qualities.  These days it’s wall-to-wall tourist traps, but not unattractive for all that.

The vegetation, such as it is, is pretty scrubby, with palm trees in the hollows, and a good scattering of agaves (from which I learn today, sisal ropes are made).  Aloe Vera is farmed and processed on the island, but fruit and vegetables are so expensive to grow here that most groceries are imported from mainland Spain.  Goats are farmed, and the cheese is supposed to be outstanding.  The only piece I could find in the shops was bigger than my fist, so we’ll have to take their word for it.  

I’d have liked to hear more from the guide about the geology and vegetation of the island, but am at least motivated now to do my own research.  So that brings our Canaries visit to an end.  Not our favourite part of the world, but the climate has a lot going for it, at least on the western islands.

Just one port of call left before we return to Southampton: Lisbon, and we’re looking forward to it.